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Sarasota Herald Tribune
January 2000
Mad About Seafood
by Rita Mazer
There is nothing better than fresh, deliciously prepared seafood. This area is overflowing with seafood restaurants in every price range; some are more successful than others in their presentation and preparation.
That said, I expected a solid performance from the Madfish Grill, which is owned by the same folks as the Hillview Grill (where you can almost always count on a beautifully prepared, tasty meal). The Madfish Grill has been open sine may '99, building a solid reputation for itself with locals and seasonal visitors alike.
The interior is light and bright, painted a muted yellow, adorned with paintings and pictures depicting island scenes and live, healthy plants. The menu is surprisingly small; missing typical items such as Scampi, Calamari or any kind of nut-crusted or fried fruits of the sea. However, the choices are interesting, ranging from Jamaican Barbecued Ribs ($13.95) and Rainbow Trout Piccata ($13.95) to a curried Seafood Bombay ($12.95 and Jambalaya ($12.95).
We started with the Artichoke and Manchego Cheese Dip ($5.25), which was vaulted from the ordinary to the very tasty by the feisty flavor of the cheese. We then dove into the Lump Crab Cakes ($6.25), lightly breaded and smothered with a delicious tequila lime beurre blanc sauce. The only downside was that they were very small. Both appetizers were beautifully presented, sharing the plate with fresh pineapple, cantaloupe, strawberries, orange slices and grapes.
The Bahamian Seafood Chowder ($4.25/bowl), while rich and creamy, was standard fare. However, the Mangospacho Soup ($3.95/bowl), their variation on chilled gazpacho, was aggressively spicy—the result of some experimentation in the kitchen, we were told.
When you hear the name "Stuffed Icelandic Cod" ($13.95) the urge to yawn is almost uncontrollable. However, the Madfish Grill smashes their tasty Dungeness crab stuffing on top of a thick filet then prepares the dish with melted Gouda cheese and a zesty roasted tomato beurre blanc. Cod is such a mellow fish that it serves as a perfect foil for clever sauces—with which this entrée is blessed.
The Sesame Seared Tuna ($18.50) is a must-have for tuna lovers. This is a sizeable chunk on tuna, prepared however you like (I chose the nearly uncooked interior of medium-rare) and served with wasabi and soy sauce. The tuna was very fresh and meaty, incredible from end to end.
Even the vegetable sides were both delicious and pleasing to the eye; they were a combination of carrots, broccoli, pole beans, squash and vibrantly purple cabbage.
Dessert options included the bittersweet Chocolate Cake, Snickers Cheesecake, Apple Crisp and Key Lime Pie. We went for the most intriguing item, the White Chocolate Bread Pudding ($4.25), which is served with a Kahlua custard sauce and dusted with cinnamon. We should have ordered two; the restaurant describes this as the ultimate comfort food, but I would describe it as a slice of pure heaven. We would have licked the bowl if it weren't impolite to do so.
The prices are reasonable here—most entrees are between $11 and $14—and the service is prompt and courteous. This is a great place for younger patrons looking for an affordable dinner in a cheerful atmosphere. This summer, the Grill will be experimenting with new menu items and eliminating some of the old ones, so give some of the special a shot. Just be sure to give this restaurant a shot—I'm pretty certain you'll be mad about it too.
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